The road as it twists and turns higher towards Lom, the end of the route
Notice the depth of the ice on the side of the road. And this is summer. In winter this road is kept open with snow ploughs and the ice builds up along the road to over twice the height of the cars.
Paul and Janeve in the lead today as we head down out of the icy country towards Lom
We had lunch in Lom and then continued on to a small place called Gjendesheim where we camped for the night ready for the big hike next day, The Besseggen Ridge Hike. If there is a hike that the country is best known for, it is this hike. 14km long, 1000m height gain and 7-8 hours start to finish. The weather had not been good and the forecast for the next day was the same, cloudy with showers. Even so, we geared up next morning in preparation and caught the boat along the lake where it dropped us off for the start of the hike. Us and about 100 other fool-hardy souls. We headed off with the weather not so bad, just cold. Probably about 10 degrees. But it quickly turned very ugly. Rain most of the way and temperatures that must have been around zero. Most of the literature about the hike was of the ridge crossing and warns that if anyone suffers from vertigo, to turn back before the crossing or don't do the hike at all. Well, I am not good with heights so I admitted to being worried about the ridge crossing, but prepared to give it a go. I had seen photos of the ridge but I had got it SO wrong. I was looking at the wrong part of the photos. The Besseggen ridge is actually a 250 metre almost vertical rise of large rocks that hikers have to climb, clamber, whatever, to get to the top, a drop of about 400metres on one side and about 700metres on the other so a slip would be deadly. Photos were few and far between but here are a few.
The Lake
The unsuspecting waiting for the boat
That is me in the green and Ray in the red at the start with no idea what was ahead for us
Part way up, in the rain and cold
The lake below where we were dropped off for the start of the hike
Our first sight of what I originally thought was the ridge, up into more cloud.
But this is THE BESSEGGEN RIDGE. Paul took this of Ray and I part-way up. When I saw what was ahead, I realised why they had warned hikers about the ridge. There were no steps, chains or any means of holding on, and no obvious way up. Just from one huge boulder to the next any way you could. I don't mind admitting that I was way out of my comfort zone and I had no confidence that I was going to be able to make it to the top. And I don't mind admitting that I was quite scared, knowing the sheer drop offs on each side. The rain was coming down steadily and the rocks very slippery and hard to get a hand-hold. But there was no turning back, so steadily onward and up to the top. And it was with immense relief and exhilaration that we got to the top,safely. We had made it!!!! And all very proud of our achievement, just short of 7 hours. That hike was by far the most difficult and dangerous that we have ever done or hope to do in the future. But now that we have done it and moved on, it has become a good talking point between us on the trip since.
As we headed out next day, we looked over at the Besseggen Ridge which is the highest mountain on the far right side of the photo. And you would not believe the improvement in the weather overnight. Cloudy but clear. We should have waited a day but without internet, the weather is an unknown so we have to do what we have planned irrespective of the weather.
Everything is still going well and we are all enjoying the trip immensely. Heading West today back towards the fjords and a small town called Aurland. Hopefully time there for another post. Bye for now.
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